I have some Fiberology PA12+CF15 blend (link) from a long time ago and recently got around to using it. I am amazed to say the least! It prints easier than PETG, even without an enclosure. Only downside is that it is much more expensive per kg, although it is lower density so I don’t seem to be going through it as quickly as other filaments.

I recently purchased some PC Blend with CF from Prusa as well. I haven’t gotten to print it yet, but I’ve heard very good things about it, too.

What less common filaments do you fine folks like using?

  • Remy Rose@lemmy.one
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    1 year ago

    100% PHA! It’s better structurally than PLA in a lot of ways, it’s fully biodegradable in any biome, and it’s just got a really pleasant feel to it

    • henry_rowengartner@lemmy.worldM
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      1 year ago

      Same. I picked up a local supplies branded wood filament. I like printing watch stands and wands. It even takes stain pretty well!

      Cheers, Henry

    • dirtdigger@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Yup, I like that stuff, too. I just printed some shelf brackets in Hatchbox wood PLA. Lots of stringing but they look pretty sweet after post processing.

      What size nozzle do you use with it? I’ve seen lots of suggestions for 0.6mm and up, but I’ve been able to print with a 0.4mm without clogs.

      • StefanT@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        I use 0.4mm too as I am usually too lazy to change the nozzle. Only printed a bunch of keyboard cases up to now but they came out great.

  • j4k3@lemmy.worldM
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    1 year ago

    I like ABS/ASA because it sands and polishes really nice.

    By far the strongest filament I have made structural parts from is Prusament PC blend.

    • Flaky_Fish69@kbin.social
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      1 year ago

      you might also like the metal-fills. I use protopasta’s bronze and and iron fill. You can get pretty decent finishes. More interestingly, you can let them tarnish/rust (or, you know, help that along,)

      Got a few friends that keep bringing reels of the stuff around for their cosplay builds. expensive as hell, though.

  • GoldenSpamfish@lemmy.zip
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    1 year ago

    Filamentum TPU 98A is probably the toughest filament you can buy. If you are ok with a little bit of flex, it’s basically impossible to break any parts made with this stuff.

  • rumplefugly@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    I wouldn’t exactly call it exotic, but I print most things in ABS. It’s just super strong and light weight. I really like Paramount 3D filament. They have really cool colors too. I would like to try something with carbon fiber in it.

    • dirtdigger@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      I like Paramount 3D for their colors, too. Lots of places have the “basic” colors, but Paramount has a lot of interesting mixes (and names!)

      Never printed ABS, but that’s just because I don’t have an enclosure.

      • FleetingTit@feddit.de
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        1 year ago

        ABS is really good if you can manage the warping reasonably well (enclosure, PEI sheet, >90°C bed temps, suitable part geometry).

        But the strength and stability at higher temperatures makes it worth the effort, especially for automotive applications. ASA is even UV stable, making it the perfect outdoor material.

  • Overzeetop@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    eSun PA-HT CF - nylon and CF in a 290C extrusion temp mix. My biggest problem is that I’ve never managed to get the support settings right so supports tend to be structurally bonded to the part and require a dremel to remove.

    The other is the eSun PA-LW, which I haven’t found a good use for yet because it’s so @#$@#%$%@ oozy that it pretty much only produces a decent part when in spiral mode. Makes fantastically light parts though.

      • Overzeetop@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        It isn’t. Think if the densest polyurethane foam you’ve encountered and then double it. I can dent it with my fingernail (takes some pressure, but it leaves a mark). Not sure if you’re familiar with the old glassine Estes rocket tubes (thin, quality cardboard, about 0.3-0.4mm) - but for structural integrity/stiffness it’s about like that in a 0.6mm single wall tube if the same diameter.

  • Bluetreefrog@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    I usually just buy from Aliexpress. Carbon fibre (PLA/PETG, can’t remember), PETG, ABS. Recently bought some Polycarbonate, but haven’t tried it yet.

  • nikscha@sopuli.xyz
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    1 year ago

    Fiberology pa12cf15 is amazing!

    I also really liked HIPS because its strong and can easily be postprocessed

  • TrueBeam@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    Maybe more in the “less mainstream” category rather than exotic, but I love ColorFabb varioshore TPU. I really like the texture and slight squishiness it gets at 220°, also floats. I also use it in lots of places where I don’t really need a semi flexible, it’s surprisingly handy.

    For exotics, as in “need to scour the internet to find”, eSun ePC is a personal favorite. Prints very cleanly at 270°, looks great, very little warp, super durable. Nasty fumes, though.
    Edit: a lot easier to get hold of now, must have been a production hiccup last time I needed some.

  • Z_Karma@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    I dusted off a sealed roll of polymaker natural ASA for my CR10 V2 pro, trying to print parts for my motorcycle and cars that were previously printed in PLA+. So far a few large parts have warped about 2/3rds of the way through. I purchased a PEI magnetic bed and am now using an enclosure. The benchy i printed looks perfect tho. If i can get it dialed in, i think it will be my favorite.

    • Overzeetop@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I love ASA for exterior fixes around the house. Durable, stable, but - as you’ve found - a bit finnicky about warping.

    • j4k3@lemmy.worldM
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      1 year ago

      If you still have trouble with ASA, get a large trash bag and place everything inside it upside down. The bag will definitely seal everything inside.

      • Z_Karma@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Now that’s a fantastic budget idea, thank you. I may try exactly that on my smaller printer. I have my CR10 in a comgrow enclosure now and it’s currently 7.5hrs into a 12hr print and it seems to be adhering better to the new PEI bed. Fingers crossed.