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Progenitor of the Weird Knife Wednesday feature column. Is “column” the right word? Anyway, apparently I also coined the Very Specific Object nomenclature now sporadically used in the 3D printing community. Yeah, that was me. This must be how Cory Doctorow feels all the time these days.

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Cake day: July 20th, 2023

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  • The E3 S1 is a direct drive extruder, right? If so, it should produce some kind of results for you although in my experience you have to retract TPU pretty far to get results, like 5-6mm. In my experience it always oozes as least a little bit so long a your nozzle is at temperature and there’s any amount of the stuff in the chamber, so you’ll never fully eliminate stringing. But some retraction should help, and you can get it down to being very minor.

    On a Bowden type extruder, though, it’s basically a fool’s errand because the stuff is so damn elastic, and is also slightly compressible to boot. The more length of it you have between your extruder gears and the tip of your nozzle, the more its elasticity becomes apparent. I think this is where the “common wisdom” of no retraction on TPU came from. The stuff can kink and then jam in a Bowden tube if you really go at it with gusto.

    Anyway, you could also try a fairly long “wipe after retraction” setting.



  • That’s better than my first attempt with TPU was, that’s for sure. No retraction whatsoever? That’s bold.

    If your slicer supports it, I recommend enabling “combing” (which is what Cura calls it), or “Avoid Crossing Perimeters” (in Prusa/derivatives) which work slightly differently, but have the net effect of keeping the nozzle within the outer walls of the print during moves when possible, which ensures that any stringing so caused winds up inside the solid spaces in the model where it’s not visible.

    Edit to add: There are of course some shapes where not crossing perimeters is impossible, which in your case would be the uprights on the Benchy’s cabin before the top of the arches meet. Presumably it’s designed this way on purpose. The combing/avoid crossing settings do wonders for not causing extraneous stringing e.g. in holes and notches in your print if any exist, though.





  • In its current form, anyway. I don’t really have a problem with it if it’s employed in its original intended method, i.e. the senator in question actually has to keep talking and cannot yield the floor for the entirety of the amount of time he wants to block something. And preferably, we put him in TV in real-time while he’s doing it. Under very bright lights.

    The way it works now where anyone can just say, “We declare filibuster” serves no purpose other than to allow whoever is in the minority (but let’s not kid ourselves, usually Republicans) to infinitely block anything forever without consequences, which is prima facie undemocratic.




  • I briefly touched on this in a lengthy comment when this scheme was originally floated a few months ago. Your prediction, which granted is something that Youtube/Google absolutely would try if they thought they could get away with it, would only work on viewers that remained within the confines of Youtube’s native player.

    Any third party app capable of bullying or tricking Youtube into handing them the video data is free to do whatever it wants to with it afterwards, even if this ultimately means impeccably pretending to be the official Youtube player in order to get the server to fork over the data. Furthermore, video playback is buffered so a hypothetical pirate client would have several seconds worth of upcoming video to analyze and determine what it wants to do with it.

    Youtube could certainly make this process rather difficult by including some kind of end-to-end DRM or something, but at the end of the day you need to make a playable video stream arrive on the client’s device or computer somehow, and if you can’t guarantee full control of the entire environment in which that happens, dedicated nerds will find a away to screw with that data.


  • I’ve had much the opposite experience, in my case coming from using a variety of Razer peripherals and having them all die early deaths, and then Razer themselves to be completely useless in regards to support even well within their warranty period. I gave up and switched to basically all Logitech stuff, which has been flawless for me for many many years.

    If everything from all major brands is going to require Yet Another Fucking Account (thus far Logitech does not appear to, or at least not the stuff from them I have) I will just be forced to switch to buying generic brandless Chinese garbage and deal with replacing it regularly. Generic Chinese crap never has an app or an account requirement.


  • PLA is a poor choice for this application. PLA will permanently deform under constant load (creep) even at room temperature. Hanging things on a hook is definitely a constant load – especially up to 45 pounds worth of something. These may not fail under short term static testing at that weight but I can tell you they absolutely will not withstand that type of load for an extended period. They’re probably fine for very light duty hanging, however. I have a variety of PLA pegs and hooks around the place that are at most holding a couple of ounces in some cases for 2+ years and they have not appreciably deformed, or at least not to the extent that I’ve noticed enough to care.

    But to avoid the inevitable customer complaints of this ilk, I advise you to either lower your advertised load rating or print these out of ABS or ASA, or at the very least PETG if your machine can’t handle the higher temperatures required for ABS reliably. Polycarb would be even better but it is extremely difficult to print with consumer printers and is probably more trouble than it’s worth. Out of the “normal” non-exotic, non-super-high-temp filaments readily commercially available, ABS has the best creep resistance.


  • I’ve been using those integrated flat LED fixtures in my place lately. I don’t find them too difficult to install, and at least one of my rooms has a rather low ceiling so I’d rather not have stuff dangling down where I can bonk myself on the head with it.

    I haven’t had a single problem but if they die they’re trivially easy – for me – to replace. They’re just held onto the ceiling electrical box with two screws, and the electrical connection is two wire nuts. It’ll take me longer to find and lug my stepladder into position than it will for me to replace one. Light fixtures are dead easy, you don’t even have to find and turn off the breaker. Just turn it off at the switch before you mess with it.

    The example you linked is suspiciously expensive. I’m getting these for around $15 each.

    If you are going to go the socket-and-bulbs route for any of the reasons raised by the other comments here, make absolutely certain that you don’t get a fixture that is enclosed in any way. Enclosed fixtures will kill LED bulbs quickly, and in extreme cases you’ll go through them faster than filament bulbs.




  • “It’s good. You’ve got the swing and everything.”

    Tʜᴀɴᴋ ʏᴏᴜ, ᴍɪss Fʟɪᴛᴡᴏʀᴛʜ.

    “But why one blade of grass at a time?”

    Bill Door regarded the neat row of stalks for some while.

    Tʜᴇʀᴇ ɪs ᴀɴᴏᴛʜᴇʀ ᴡᴀʏ?

    “You can do lots in one go, you know.”

    Nᴏ. Nᴏ. Oɴᴇ ʙʟᴀᴅᴇ ᴀᴛ ᴀ ᴛɪᴍᴇ. Oɴᴇ ᴛɪᴍᴇ, ᴏɴᴇ ʙʟᴀᴅᴇ.

    “You won’t cut many that way,” said Miss Flitworth.

    Eᴠᴇʀʏ ʟᴀsᴛ ᴏɴᴇ, Mɪss Fʟɪᴛᴡᴏʀᴛʜ.

    “Yes?”

    Tʀᴜsᴛ ᴍᴇ ᴏɴ ᴛʜɪs.