I mean, depends on the car you have. Outside of purchasing the vehicle, I haven’t spent 15k in the last decade of car ownership and that’s in AUD, so like 10k us. Pretty sure a new battery could cost more than that. Definitely the case for some though, especially if you have cheap electricity.
Why would you worry about the battery when it has a 8-10y warranty on it on average? The only reason to replace it is if it has a manufacturing problem and that’s why there’s a warranty. Don’t void the warranty and you’ll be fine.
You don’t have to change the high voltage battery on EV nowadays.
Cars last more than 8-10 years so the warranty wont always help. For example I have never in my life owned a car that is less than 10 years old, my current '08 is the newest by almost a decade. Being concerned about replacing the battery is a long term thing.
Very true. Although out of warranty doesn’t mean the battery needs replacement. There are many Teslas out there (because there are not many other EV that old yet) that have 700 000 km and more, some even closing in to the million km, and on average their battery SoH is still over 70%.
Again as the article says, the car will need replacement for pretty much everything else (suspension, steering, etc) before the HV battery.
Again, the battery is not something to be concerned about, even long term.
Not OP, but also drive simple, older cars. And yeah, the maintenance costs really aren’t very high. The bulk of my maintenance costs are stuff like tires & brakes - which I’d still be buying for electric cars too. Biggest cost by far is insurance, and once again, going to need to insure an electric car too.
Second biggest cost is gas though, and you are correct, not having to pay that would be nice. But I’m not yet convinced that when I need to replace the battery, that single cost will be more affordable than the running cost for weekly fill-ups. I have yet to see any automaker publicly list their battery packs for sale with a pricetag. Ditto for all of the aftermarket auto part shops. My fear is that lack of visibility is intentional, and that battery packs actually cost far more than we want to believe. I would like to be proven wrong, and I suspect someday I will. But I doubt it will be in the near future.
The difference is it costs a fraction to rebuild an engine or replace with a lower mileage unit than it does getting a new or refurbished battery pack.
I’m ready for EVs too but the lack of DIY maintenance makes it not make sense.
My last car I had for just over 2 years cost me $500 in services, $200 for a new fuel tank (new is a strong word for an at the time 22 year old car), and then its just fuel and rego, fuel was like $80/month and is the primary expense, rego might actually put it over 15k for a decade because that’s like $700/year on nearly any car i’ve had (where i am its mostly based on cylinder count, and i haven’t owned a 4 cyl car since like 2017, at least my performance car doesnt cost more because 6 cyl is 6 cyl regardless of power output).
I don’t drive a whole lot, but enough that I’m not in the bottom bracket of my insurance, car is required due to not even living in a town. Not even remotely interested in walking the 4km to work because 6 months of the year minimum are way too hot for that.
700$ + 1920$ = 2620 x 5 = 13100$ over 10 years at that rate
Pretty fucking close to 15k and, again, I’m gonna call bullshit that you didn’t spend more if we you said you only drive old cars and a 2008 that you’ve had for 2 years is the most recent by a decade. I know what it’s like to own old cars, it’s far from cheap.
The 2008 is new, thats like 2 months old for me right now, the car for 2 years was a 2000 model, Ford Falcon AU.
I have no idea what old cars you’ve bought that aren’t cheap, but if cheap was the goal you clearly bought the wrong old cars. Outside of my first and current car, all of my cars have been cheap, reliable trash because that’s all I had the money for. I’ve even only had a single car break down, presuming broken down means wont turn on, or wont drive. The Falcon had an issue where it wouldn’t turn off, but arguably not broken down as I drove about 300km like that before the locksmiths replaced the ignition barrel.
Your math is… interesting, and while it actually favours my side, it shouldn’t because you’ve made some presumptions that may be accurate in your country but not mine. $1,920 I figured out is 2 years of fuel which is about right for all the 6cyl cars, Although definitely not my '08, but I didn’t buy that to be cheap. $700 is… I’m presuming you mean that to be car registration but you only account for 5 years of it, which heavily overcounters my slight rounding up for what a year of rego is (670 for a 6cyl, at least currently, hasnt been under 600 since ive had 6cyl cars though). I slightly underestimated with 15k with my math presuming current costs reflect the past decade, i got to about 18k with fuel/rego/services/repairs, however many of my cars have been 4cyls which removes $100-$200/year depending on when I owned them in rego, the 4cyls also definitely cost nowhere near 1k a year in fuel, particularly because I had them when fuel prices were about 40% lower than current. What was an $8 drive is now about $30. I presumed services were all $250, however most of them were under $200, just more recent Mitsubishi Magna and the Ford Falcon were $250. Could lower the total by 2k if you count in selling/scrapping prices, with the Datsun adjusted for what it would’ve scrapped for (~$250) as opposed to the 2.5k I actually got because lucking in to an almost 2k profit after using it as a learner car isn’t realistic for most people.
Car list if your curious, Datsun 180b '74, $700 purchase, used no fuel but also went nowhere, 0-100kph time of ‘one day, maybe’, got pulled over for aggressive acceleration, somehow. Hyundai Excel, $1,300. Ford Laser (AKA Mazda 323 AKA like 4 other cars), $1,000 purchase, never serviced because a friend at the time super totaled it within 6 months of me getting it. Mitsubishi Magna '95, $500. Serviced for $250, was a V5. Not by design but hey it ran. Mitsubishi Magna '00, $700, actually had a full functional 6 cylinders, although a $500 repair bill while knowing the engine had about 20,000kms left on it made me scrap it instead because why spend the value of a car fixing it when it has a problem that’ll cost several times more in the near future. Ford Falcon AU '00, $2k, boring as shit, first car that took actual damage from my driveway, managed to slam the radiator into the ground, which is impressive because that is in theory higher than the bumper and the bumper was untouched from that. Now a Nissan Skyline 370GT, AKA Infiniti G37 in a lot of places, 15k. This car goes significantly slower in my driveway as I suspect a radiator is not a $200 job and I could really do with not breaking it due to poor terrain. Doesn’t really fit the ‘old car on a budget’ theme I’ve been doing most of my life which is why it’s been excluded from the above math, it would heavily skew it towards the more expensive side. Spent like 5k on it in 2 months, brake pads, rotors and tyres combined were like 3k, tank of fuel is $140 instead of $80 or less for previous cars.
They’re actually more reliable and money saved on gas and maintenance is much more than the price of changing the battery every 10 years.
I mean, depends on the car you have. Outside of purchasing the vehicle, I haven’t spent 15k in the last decade of car ownership and that’s in AUD, so like 10k us. Pretty sure a new battery could cost more than that. Definitely the case for some though, especially if you have cheap electricity.
Why would you worry about the battery when it has a 8-10y warranty on it on average? The only reason to replace it is if it has a manufacturing problem and that’s why there’s a warranty. Don’t void the warranty and you’ll be fine.
You don’t have to change the high voltage battery on EV nowadays.
Source: I own a Polestar 2.
Cars last more than 8-10 years so the warranty wont always help. For example I have never in my life owned a car that is less than 10 years old, my current '08 is the newest by almost a decade. Being concerned about replacing the battery is a long term thing.
Very true. Although out of warranty doesn’t mean the battery needs replacement. There are many Teslas out there (because there are not many other EV that old yet) that have 700 000 km and more, some even closing in to the million km, and on average their battery SoH is still over 70%.
Again as the article says, the car will need replacement for pretty much everything else (suspension, steering, etc) before the HV battery.
Again, the battery is not something to be concerned about, even long term.
Gas + maintenance, you haven’t spent 15k? I call bullshit unless you drive so little that you don’t really need a car in the first place…
Not OP, but also drive simple, older cars. And yeah, the maintenance costs really aren’t very high. The bulk of my maintenance costs are stuff like tires & brakes - which I’d still be buying for electric cars too. Biggest cost by far is insurance, and once again, going to need to insure an electric car too.
Second biggest cost is gas though, and you are correct, not having to pay that would be nice. But I’m not yet convinced that when I need to replace the battery, that single cost will be more affordable than the running cost for weekly fill-ups. I have yet to see any automaker publicly list their battery packs for sale with a pricetag. Ditto for all of the aftermarket auto part shops. My fear is that lack of visibility is intentional, and that battery packs actually cost far more than we want to believe. I would like to be proven wrong, and I suspect someday I will. But I doubt it will be in the near future.
All you guys are acting like batteries will 100% need to be replaced but the gas engine on an old car can’t break
Overall EV reliability, running and maintenance cost is lower than that of gas cars.
The difference is it costs a fraction to rebuild an engine or replace with a lower mileage unit than it does getting a new or refurbished battery pack.
I’m ready for EVs too but the lack of DIY maintenance makes it not make sense.
My last car I had for just over 2 years cost me $500 in services, $200 for a new fuel tank (new is a strong word for an at the time 22 year old car), and then its just fuel and rego, fuel was like $80/month and is the primary expense, rego might actually put it over 15k for a decade because that’s like $700/year on nearly any car i’ve had (where i am its mostly based on cylinder count, and i haven’t owned a 4 cyl car since like 2017, at least my performance car doesnt cost more because 6 cyl is 6 cyl regardless of power output).
I don’t drive a whole lot, but enough that I’m not in the bottom bracket of my insurance, car is required due to not even living in a town. Not even remotely interested in walking the 4km to work because 6 months of the year minimum are way too hot for that.
700$ + 1920$ = 2620 x 5 = 13100$ over 10 years at that rate
Pretty fucking close to 15k and, again, I’m gonna call bullshit that you didn’t spend more if we you said you only drive old cars and a 2008 that you’ve had for 2 years is the most recent by a decade. I know what it’s like to own old cars, it’s far from cheap.
The 2008 is new, thats like 2 months old for me right now, the car for 2 years was a 2000 model, Ford Falcon AU.
I have no idea what old cars you’ve bought that aren’t cheap, but if cheap was the goal you clearly bought the wrong old cars. Outside of my first and current car, all of my cars have been cheap, reliable trash because that’s all I had the money for. I’ve even only had a single car break down, presuming broken down means wont turn on, or wont drive. The Falcon had an issue where it wouldn’t turn off, but arguably not broken down as I drove about 300km like that before the locksmiths replaced the ignition barrel.
Your math is… interesting, and while it actually favours my side, it shouldn’t because you’ve made some presumptions that may be accurate in your country but not mine. $1,920 I figured out is 2 years of fuel which is about right for all the 6cyl cars, Although definitely not my '08, but I didn’t buy that to be cheap. $700 is… I’m presuming you mean that to be car registration but you only account for 5 years of it, which heavily overcounters my slight rounding up for what a year of rego is (670 for a 6cyl, at least currently, hasnt been under 600 since ive had 6cyl cars though). I slightly underestimated with 15k with my math presuming current costs reflect the past decade, i got to about 18k with fuel/rego/services/repairs, however many of my cars have been 4cyls which removes $100-$200/year depending on when I owned them in rego, the 4cyls also definitely cost nowhere near 1k a year in fuel, particularly because I had them when fuel prices were about 40% lower than current. What was an $8 drive is now about $30. I presumed services were all $250, however most of them were under $200, just more recent Mitsubishi Magna and the Ford Falcon were $250. Could lower the total by 2k if you count in selling/scrapping prices, with the Datsun adjusted for what it would’ve scrapped for (~$250) as opposed to the 2.5k I actually got because lucking in to an almost 2k profit after using it as a learner car isn’t realistic for most people.
Car list if your curious, Datsun 180b '74, $700 purchase, used no fuel but also went nowhere, 0-100kph time of ‘one day, maybe’, got pulled over for aggressive acceleration, somehow. Hyundai Excel, $1,300. Ford Laser (AKA Mazda 323 AKA like 4 other cars), $1,000 purchase, never serviced because a friend at the time super totaled it within 6 months of me getting it. Mitsubishi Magna '95, $500. Serviced for $250, was a V5. Not by design but hey it ran. Mitsubishi Magna '00, $700, actually had a full functional 6 cylinders, although a $500 repair bill while knowing the engine had about 20,000kms left on it made me scrap it instead because why spend the value of a car fixing it when it has a problem that’ll cost several times more in the near future. Ford Falcon AU '00, $2k, boring as shit, first car that took actual damage from my driveway, managed to slam the radiator into the ground, which is impressive because that is in theory higher than the bumper and the bumper was untouched from that. Now a Nissan Skyline 370GT, AKA Infiniti G37 in a lot of places, 15k. This car goes significantly slower in my driveway as I suspect a radiator is not a $200 job and I could really do with not breaking it due to poor terrain. Doesn’t really fit the ‘old car on a budget’ theme I’ve been doing most of my life which is why it’s been excluded from the above math, it would heavily skew it towards the more expensive side. Spent like 5k on it in 2 months, brake pads, rotors and tyres combined were like 3k, tank of fuel is $140 instead of $80 or less for previous cars.