KAISERSLAUTERN, Germany—Driving toward the German village of Ramstein-Miesenbach feels like entering a twilight zone. It is no longer Germany, but it isn’t quite America either.
The density of pickup trucks and baseball caps increases. Bilingual signs are everywhere and live country music is played every Thursday at Big Emma’s brewery.
But a chill has gripped the tiny village just across the fence surrounding Ramstein Air Base. “We still play soccer [with the Americans], we cook together, we’ll celebrate Easter,” said Mayor Ralf Hechler. “We just don’t talk politics all that much.”
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