Back in December I got my P1S and since I mostly printed Vases and plant pots back then, I decided to mostly use PETG.
That PETG as I now know was just Wet, which caused it to ooze out of the nozzle after the print, a Fact I hated. Since at the time I must’ve be pretty stupid, I decided to clean it by Heating the Nozzle to the max of 300°C and let it ooze fully out. It did work and the prints after it where fine… so I did it another 10-20 times until I got a Brass Brush and started just using that…
In retrospective, Filament really shouldn’t be heated over its limit… because that probably Backed in the PETG really hard. Mustve been to the point where the nozzle clogged, getting me to cold pull it a lot.
Big question is, is there still Backed in PETG in that nozzle, even after 20 or so Cold Pulls? It definetly seems to underextrude a noticable bit. Should I use the replacement nozzle or look into other reasons for said Underextrusion? Thanks!
Edit: Did as suggested and tried swapping the nozzle, thermistor was stuck and getting it out broke it, replacement thermistor is gonna take till thursday to arrive, god I hate this machine
Echo others, nozzles are consumables, keep some on hand.
It’s not unusual for PETG to ooze a little after a print in my experience, but it’s been my experience that a quick brushing with a nylon or brass brush is enough, often I just knock off the bit that oozes out, haven’t had issues with offset doing that.
Baked on PETG is awful, I’ve scrapped a v6 block that blobbed itself (my fault, probably loosened it accidentally after a nozzle change, I only use hotends that don’t rotate now). Some solvents do work, but most of the stuff that dissolves petg is nasty, I don’t recommend them.
You could try some cleaning filament, personally found it fairly effective at clearing partial clogs, good stuff to have on hand anyhow.
First of all: Nozzles are replacable and they are also cheap. They are also wearing down with time. So if you worry, just replace the nozzle. And if you want to know if there is still filament stuck in there, unscrew the noozle and look at it.
I’ve been liking my oxbidian nozzle but not cheap at all. I’ve been throwing wood fiber pla and GID PETG at it and it seems to handle it well. Doesn’t seem to be showing sign of wear after a year.
I’ve noticed partial internal blockages when switching between PETG and PLA; ie’ when purging, the new filament curves as it’s coming out and I’ll get inconsistent extrusion till it shakes a small fragment of the old filament out in the next print.
While cleaning filament helps, I think that’s mostly as I can run it at 290°C to flush the remaining anything out… Plus it’s a much longer filament swap process to do cleaning filament in between…
While regular nozzles are super cheap, the nextruder nozzles from Prusa aren’t, especially the High Flow ones, and double especially the high flow Obxidian ones… The high flow nozzles also don’t let you cold pull them the same way, which sucks…
When I started with my first printer, the flashforge A3, someone suggested having separate nozzles for PLA from PETG… I used to do this and it prevented many problems I’d been having from ever starting. I’m beginning to think about doing the same with my Mk4S, and having a separate hotend/nozzle combo for PETG, PLA, and PCCF that I can just swap…
So then I’ll just need two new mk4 silicon socks in colours other than black so I can tell them apart…
Cries in PrusaXL…
Whats wrong with the prusa? Considering getting one
Oh it’s a fantastic printer, but the default brass nozzles are $25 and the hardened steel are $53. Also you have to buy up to 5 of them at a time. Add to it, a 36cm^3 build area and you start to realize how fast the brass ones flatten their tips.
In short, nozzles aren’t cheap.
Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
can you not get 3rd party ones?
TBH, I hadn’t thought about it. But you’re right, I bet they are revos or something. Even then, those are still expensive. You aren’t buying a bag of 20 for $10
It certainly depends on your hotend but I’m able to get a bag of 20 for <10€ for my trusty old ender 3 (actually 4.17€ on AliExpress)
You could get the nextruder <> v6 adapter and then use the cheapos
Maybe, I wonder how well the calibration would work for multi color printing then. Might be worth a test
It’s a P1S. A nozzle that is hard/cumbersome to change is 15 USD. One that is almost as easy to change as a regular nozzle is 35 USD.
Add shipping costs, maybe taxes, the fact that they can have crazy delays…
I remember on my old printer I’d by a bag of nozzles even if I didn’t need them. But on a Bambu… Yeah, I’d try to salvage the nozzle too.
Is there anything fancy about the nozzle or is that just the general grift companies are doing with replacement parts?
It is a stainless steel nozzle, but the real problem is that it’s not just the nozzle, it’s either “hotend” with cooling ribs etc, with lots of fiddling to connect wires etc, or “complete hotend” that also comes with a fan so more of the wires are already connected.
See https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-hotend-p1-series?variant=40923060797576
I wish they did like Prusa where you can also buy assembly, but they have one that is basically an adapter so you can use any regular cheap nozzle.
Nozzles are disposable. I would swap for piece of mind.
You really shouldn’t overheat filaments that much. It changes the properties. Replacements are affordable, I would just swap it.
I think the nozzle is fine. Get better filament.
