Finally completed my Explorer Pi V2 build. My primary goals for V2 was to adjust economics to fit my hand, improve build quality while reducing total part count, and to create a better thumb cluster. A lot of these changes trade modularity to achieve these goals, which is not a big loss as I get closer to endgame design.
Thumb cluster was my biggest complaint with the original; being modular made the whole assembly too weak and key spacing to large; not to mention inflating the part count. So I made a one piece design with additional mounting support. Also went with a six key, two row design. Finally I make the switch plate compatible with either MX or Choc switches (and swappable). Used my Enigma Dual Hot Swap pcbs for the thumb cluster keys. This thumb cluster is probably going to see some future iterations. I’ve made things fully modular in case I want to swap it out for a new one later.
I’ve made quite a few changes to the original to arrive at this point including:
- adjusted stagger of each column
- adjusted splay and height on the pinky columns
- used flexible pcbs (from the BigSkree)
- made the switch plate one piece per side (orig was individual columns)
- added side walls to the switch plate
- added additional support to the thumb cluster so it has less wobble
- one piece, 6 key thumb cluster
- support for both choc and mx switches on thumb cluster
- added ARRI locating holes to the 1/4" mounting point
- reduced total count of required inserts and screws
- reduced diameter of the 1/4" insert hole to better fit the inserts I was able to source
- adjusted 1/4" mount location for better center of balance.
While I originally was planning on taking more build photos and putting together a guide for this iteration I had a bit of a lightbulb moment while assembling this for how to improve the entire build dramatically so that going to be a goal for V3 now.
As a slight aside I came up with a pretty good mounting solution for this board. Each half has a stand using these rubber coated magnets, a low profile hawklock and super low small ballhead mounts. With my v2.5 base plate I modified the 1/4" center of balance so that these stands balance well enough on a non magnetic surface to type on. They are also rubber coated so surface damage as well as sliding are minimized. Then for my main setup to make things even more secure I simply place a piece of sheet steel under my desk pad. I’m liking this enough that I’m starting to wonder about the embedding some steel in the desk permanently.
Keycaps:
- DES alphas R2-R4
- 4x DES Thumbs R5x
- 2x DES R5 1.25u
- 2x cDES R5x
- 2x CS 1.25u
- 2x Gravity 1.25u
Switches:
- MX Boba U4
- Choc Sunsets
The Boba U4’s are the second switch I’ve tried on here and still not satisfied. Anyone have some good silent tactile switch suggestions?
Links:
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Hasn’t really come up yet, I’m wfh, but yeah I would want to take this with me if I could. Actually bought a hardcase to stick this in should I need to travel with it.
Going back to something flat would be a bit of an exercise. Sculpted alphas would go a long way even on a flat board but the biggest difference would be in the thumb cluster comfort.
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Keywell keyboards will give you less, and more natural finger travel compared to a flat board. Though with only 3 rows the difference isn’t really all that much compared to a flat board with good sculpted keys. It’s a much bigger deal once you go larger than 3 rows.
For me the major motivation to try out this style of board was the curved thumb cluster. At least in my opinion most thumb clusters you see are pretty terrible from an ergonomics perspective. Even when you get one that doesn’t encourage curling your thumb under your fingers a flat arc doesn’t really correspond with the thumbs most natural movement. I find curved arc of this thumb cluster more natural and allows for more keys to be comfortably arranged than would otherwise be possible.
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You’d be surprised to feel the difference in a keywell such as yours paired with super sculpted keycaps! Assuming that a keywell makes keycap sculpting unnecessary, but then learnt that the manuform was designed around SA keycaps, I gave that a try, with extra sculpt. Instead of the regular 2,3,4 (3rd row being flat, 2 and 4 being slightly sculpted in opposite direction), I tried 1,3,4, where 1st row is for number row and fn row. It’s super tall and sculpted. It was heavily! It reduced finger movement even more, but as you said - it was in a natural way.
Highly recommended!
My previous Dactyl Manuform was very low profile with choc switches, it was very elegant, more than most Dactyl Manuforms. The last one I built and am using now, is the bog standard 3x5 with SA keycaps - much, much taller but so much better!
What didn’t you like about the U4? Are you using the U4t (for tactile)? It’s the first silent switch I’ve used and I love it, but don’t know any better. I might have to get new switches for building your variation, and if you’ve got a recommendation for a u4t alternative (and the reason it’s better) I’d love to hear it!
Anyway - great photos, and again, beautiful build!
Yeah I’ve never actually tried non-sculpted caps on a keywell so I’m really just guessing on the difference. I started with sculpted caps on my moonlander and never really touched non sculpted caps since.
The switches as U4 silent tactiles, not the U4t. I’m getting more used to them after a couple days of typing but they still feel a bit scratchy and abrupt. Also some of the keys have a bit of ping to them. Some of this might be due to my swapping the springs with 45g ones. More than the feel though, which again I’m growing more used to (and maybe is improving as they break in), they aren’t all that silent. The silent squids which I had on here before by comparison where dead quiet; they just felt a tad mushy. I think I’d rather have true silence with a little bit of mush or just go with non-silent tactiles (like T1 Sunflower’s on previous build) with superior tactile feel.